HISTORY: The Havanese breed descends from old-world Bichon types of small companion dogs such as antique versions of the Maltese and the Caniche. They are neither Terriers nor Spaniels. This group of small longhaired dogs is very old and originated in the Mediterranean in pre-Christian times. From the original antique “small dog”, numerous varieties evolved. As the centuries passed, interesting variations developed into separate and distinct breeds, each with a slightly different temperament and appearance. Variations, in large part arose from the preferences of their human caretakers of the time, climatic influence as well as possible input from other breeds.

The Havanese breed is part of the Bichon family, which includes the Bichon Frisé, Coton de Tulear, Bolognese, Maltese, Bolonka, and perhaps the Lowchen.It is believed that during the days of the Spanish Empire they were brought to Cuba by sea captains to be sold to wealthy Cuban families as well as given as gifts to win the favour of wealthy senoras.The breed is thought to have developed without outside influence and evolved unique adaptations for the hot cuban climate. It is a remarkably heat-tolerant dog, due to its unique coat. The coat is like raw silk floss, profuse, but extremely light and soft, and insulating against the tropical sun. In its native country, the coat was never clipped for this reason, and the hair never tied into a topknot, as the Cubans believe the hair protects the eyes from the harsh sun. It loves the water and is an accomplished swimmer.By the mid-eighteenth century, they became very popular in Europe. Queen Victoria is said to have owned two and Charles Dickens had one called Tim, which was much beloved by his seven children. They were exhibited in the early European dog shows and type was well-established. In Cuba meanwhile, the times were changing. The aristocracy of the sugar barons was dying out and a new class was emerging, the bourgeoisie, and the little dog of Havana, adaptable as always, became an exceptional family dog, playmate of children, watchdog.  It is a position he has held there for the past hundred and fifty years. It is said, though debated, that they were also a herder of the family poultry flock.after the Cuban revolution, the Havanese began to die out except for a handful of them who found their way to the United States where they have slowly but steadily been rebuilt. All the Havanese in the world today, except for those from the “iron curtain” countries and those remaining in Cuba, stem from those 11 immigrants. Through out of their travels Havanese type has remained virtually unchanged from that of the dogs in the eighteenth century.

A dog for the kids is only a good idea if the whole family is ready and committed to the care of its new canine family member. As well, not all breeds are suitable as childrens companions. Some breeds because of size (too big or too small), others because of temperament or nature or because of tactile or noise sensitivity or a low tolerance for irritability. Many people assume that a small dog is ideal for a small child. They forget that many toy breeds are fragile and often intolerant of teasing and rough handling. The majority of Toy dogs are best suited to homes with no children or with older considerate children only. Of course, there are exceptions.

The delightful Havanese is a Toy breed which is exceptionally well suited to a family with children. He is not nearly as fragile as his size suggests. Rather, the Havanese has a very sturdy build similar to a small terrier. This makes him solid enough to withstand some rough and tumble play. Havanese adore children and enjoy their company. Even when they have not been raised together, they seem to get along especially well. Havanese are happy and sweet natured with an easy going temperament and love nothing better than to be in the middle of any and all family activities. Havanese are natural little clowns with a penchant for doing tricks to get attention. They are extremely playful and will play tirelessly at any game. Havanese have a spirited sense of humour and retain their lively playfulness through most of their lives. Havanese are very responsive and easy to train which may also make them a good choice for a junior handler in the show ring as well as in performance events like Obedience or Agility’.

As with all breeds, training and supervision are important. Your Havanese puppy needs to learn basic manners and children must be taught to be kind, considerate and gentle. They must not be allowed to tease mercilessly, nor to pull at fur, ears and tails. Gentle and proper handling must be taught and promoted by responsible adults. Not only will your Havanese be a playmate and friend, he is also a dependant member of the family who needs love and care in return. Puppy classes or obedience classes where the whole family can attend are an excellent idea.

When selecting a Havanese for your family, temperament is the most important factor. Choose a well bred puppy from a reputable breeder. A decisive factor should be the sire and dam. They will be the best indication of how a puppy may grow up. When a Havanese joins a family, he looks forward to and expects to be an important part of it. In return he will give unending love, devotion, amusement and pleasure. Making people happy is his greatest joy and goal in life.

dog.

Remember with the Havanese, non-shedding does not mean no grooming or no maintenance. A clean and matt free dog is a happy and healthy dog. Regular brushing will maintain a healthy coat and a happier Havanese.

These grooming sessions should be done several times a week. Grooming will also help you see if the puppy has any skin problems such as parasites or growths that do not belong on the dog. The more time you spend with your Havanese puppy, the better the bond will be.

Start by getting your Havanese puppy used to standing or laying on a slip free surface such as a grooming table. If you do not have access to a grooming table, you can use a bath mat with the rubber back on the dryer or large counter space.

Brushing and Combing: With a grooming spray (diluted conditioner) lightly mist the puppy prior to brushing and often in between. Do not make a Havanese puppy wet but just slig

htly damp. Brushing a Havanese dry can break the coat off in sections and create static. I like to set the p

uppy into my lap until he adjusts to being brushed then I move on to a table.

You should be brushing the puppy with a pin brush in layers
to make sure you get to the base of the coat. Once you have a layer complete, take a fine metal comb and gently comb out the area you just brushed to make sure there are no knots in the coat. Gently spray with your grooming spray, and do another layer.

Continue to do the layers until you have the complete coat brushed. Make sure to not miss the top of the puppy. Most people forget to do this as they have done both sides and the top looks complete. Make sure to stand the puppy up to see that top layer down the back and brush that as well. The tail can be done simply by using your pin brush and brushing gently down. Use your comb again to make sure there are no knots. Your puppy’s head will be the hardest part. If you can get your puppy to sit still, you’ve already won the battle. Treat your puppy for being such a trooper and give him many kisses and hugs.

Nail Trimming: Havanese nails grow quite fast, especially on the front feet. I prefer to trim the nails weekly throughout the life of the puppy as it is much easier to do if you and your puppy are accustomed to it. The nails should be trimmed level to the pads. I like to take the puppy’s foot upside down so I can see what I am trimming. Have some quick clot ready in case you accidentally cut the quick and need to stop the bleeding. If you trim regularly, you should be able to keep the nails nice and short. Treat the puppy for being brave.

Pad Trimming: Havanese can have very fuzzy feet. The puppy’s pads should be trimmed on a regular basis to keep the hair out from underneath so the pads do not splay. With a hair clipper or blunt end scissors, trim all the excess hair from underneath and between the pads. This will also prevent your puppy from sliding on floors. Treat the puppy for being patient.

Ear Cleaning: Check inside your Havanese puppy’s ears; some Havanese have a lot of ear hair in the ear canal while others have very little. You can buy powder specially made for plucking the ears, you only need a little. Gently pull the hair out from inside the ear canal. A clean ear canal may help prevent ear infections. Once you have the ears cleaned, take a cotton ball and clean the inside of the ears with canine ear cleaner. Never use a Q-tip; the puppy can move suddenly and you risk damage to the ear canal. Make sure there is no left over ear cleaner when you are done. Take your time as to not scare or hurt your puppy. Depending on how much ear hair there is, you may need to do this in a few sessions before the ear canal is clean. Treat the puppy for being good about it.

Eye Cleaning: This should be done daily. The Havanese can have some tearing caused by the hair growth between the eyes. Take a warm facecloth or eye cleaning pad and gently remove all the debris from the corners of the eyes. When the puppies are young, I like to place a bit of Vaseline from the corners of the eyes down to keep the hair from growing into the eyes. I prefer not to cut the hair in the corners of the eyes as once the puppy’s hair grows, it will be trained to stay down. Once cut, you will have to continue to do so or the hair will continually grow into the eyes and irritate them. Treat the puppy for being cute.

Grooming does not have to be a struggle. Patience, consistency, praise and firm but gentle persistence on your part will help your Havanese puppy get used to grooming and accept it as a fact of life.

– Previously published in Dogs In Canada Breedlines – June/August 2006

Basic Bathing

By HFC Member – Heather Warnock

Once your Havanese is freshly brushed and groomed, its bath time. Have your supplies close at hand, as well as a few tasty treats nearby for rewarding good behavior and keeping things fun. Ready? Let’s get wet.

I like to use a spray nozzle which makes washing and rinsing much easier. Toy dogs like the Havanese are small enough to be bathed in your kitchen sink with a non slip mat in the bottom. First, I put a large cotton ball in their ears so I don’t accidentally get water inside. Make sure the water is warm, not too hot, and get your Havanese puppy used to the water by spraying his back and shoulders. Keep the spray on low, be gentle and work gradually to give your puppy time to acclimate. Keep the nozzle about 1 inch from the dog so that the water efficiently penetrates the profuse coat. Praise and give a treat if you like.

After he relaxes, wet his head making sure to never spray directly in the face. Slightly lift his face so that the water runs down the back of his head. Use your fingers to move the water away from the eyes, nose and mouth. Give lots of praise.

Using a Ph balanced shampoo especially formulated for dogs, apply a line of shampoo along the back and skull. Massage right down to the skin, working the suds through the coat, down and under the tail, the underside, legs and feet. Don’t forget to do between the toes. Lather the head, being careful not to get soap in the eyes. Give lots of praise. Handle the coat gently like washing a wool sweater, don’t scrub or the coat will mat.

After thoroughly lathering, rinse with warm water and a medium spay. Gently rinse the head and neck first, working your way down the body, making sure you get all the soap out (soap residue can cause skin irritation). Rinse again until the water runs clear. Give lots of praise.

Next, apply Ph balanced conditioner; work through the coat and let stand for one minute. Rinse well until water runs clear and all the excess conditioner is gone. This makes for easier combing and keeps the coat in good condition. Give lots of praise.

Wrap your puppy in a large absorbent towel and gently squeeze out any excess water. Do not rub the coat or it could mat. Now he is ready to be blown dry or maybe just air-dried as you prefer. Praise and give lots of kisses and treats. Your Havanese is now nice and clean. Wasn’t that easy?

The long lush Havanese coat can attract and hold a lot of debris and puppies are insatiably curious and can get into lots of messes. Seeing as Havanese are indoor dogs and many are allowed on furniture and beds, they are generally bathed quite frequently to keep them clean and well groomed.

– Previously published in Dogs In Canada Breedlines – September 2006

© Copyright Heather Warnock. All rights reserved. The information contained in this article may not be published, broadcast or otherwise distributed without the prior written authority of the author.

There are few things more unsightly than rusty tear stains marring the appearance of an otherwise beautifully groomed Havanese. This will of course be most noticeable on white and other light coloured Havanese and less visible, though no less of an issue, on a Havanese with a dark face. The stains are not the only problem, you should take note of tearing and/or eye discharge regardless of the colour of your Havanese. There are a number of reasons for eye discharge and excessive tearing and the unattractive stains that may result.

Excessive tearing, blocked tear ducts, acidity or pH of the tears, bacterial or yeast infections, genetics, teething, irritation, allergies, hair in the eyes, environment (smoke and other pollutants), shampoo and chemicals, diet, food allergy or intolerance are all potential culprits. Camouflaging the stains is a popular option, but in truth, understanding the causes, prevention. and controlling the tear staining are more important than simply covering up. Removing or camouflaging the stains is temporary at best as the stains will reoccur unless the source of the staining is removed.

Getting a health checkup is the first step. If the cause is a problem such as a blocked duct or an infection, veterinary interventions like surgery , treatment or medication may be necessary. Once you are sure that your Havanese is healthy, the next step is to eliminate the likeliest causes from the environment, water and diet. Ensure that there is no hair curling into the eyes to cause irritation. A tiny bit of trimming at the inner corner of the eyes may help (but as growth occurs after cutting, hair will irritate the eyes) as will keeping the facial hair out of the eyes, by keeping it brushed back or fastened with tiny elastics, barrettes, clips or a topknot.

In the environment try to limit the use of things like heavy air fresheners, carpet powders and other chemical products. Vacuum well and rinse well where any chemicals have been used.

Water – In many areas, tap and well water may have a high mineral content. The impurities in the water may cause tear staining of the face and beard. If this is the case, a very simple and inexpensive solution is to use bottled, filtered or distilled water for your Havanese. A difference may be noted in as little as 10 days though it may take up to 3 months for optimal improvement.

Food – Additives, preservatives and food colourings found in many dog foods and treats can be significant factors tear staining. Certain spices, flavourings and ingredients may be culprits, such as basted and flavoured rawhide and bones. Not only do they stain the face and beard but also any areas of fur that they come in contact with, as well light coloured carpets! Missing ingredients may also be contributing factors. Use the best quality food you can afford. For some Havanese, something as simple as an Essential Fatty Acid supplement can make a significant difference.

By simply removing some of these causative factors, you may significantly minimize or eliminate much of the tearing and facial staining. Though getting rid of the cause is the best way to control the problem, you may still want and need to remove or cover up the stains that are already there.

There are several options for dietary supplementation which may help minimize tearing and staining. If a pH imbalance is suspected, these may help the problem from the inside. A calcium supplement such as Tums (Calcium Carbonate) may significantly alter the pH of the tears which in turn will be less hospitable for the growth of bacteria and yeast. Another choice is to give an apple cider vinegar supplement. Vitamin C is another popular remedy purported to prevent beard staining as are Fatty Acid Supplements, parsley and Zinc. It is a good idea to check with your Veterinarian before starting any supplements as they are not right for all dogs and also to confirm correct dosing.

Until you can find and eliminate the cause of the tearing and staining, you may wish to use some temporary measures to keep your Havanese looking great. Daily cleansing of the area with a soft washcloth is essential in removing any accumulated debris around the eyes and beard. Using saline eye drops is safe and gentle and will help wash out any irritants. Many products available from groomers, pet supply stores and catalogues such as ‘Diamond Eye’ or ‘Eye Envy’ can be used to remove stains from facial hair as well as creams, chalks and powders used to cover up the stains temporarily or to protect the hair. Popular homemade remedies include­ mixtures of Hydrogen peroxide, milk of magnesia, corn starch , and conditioners.

Use extreme care when using any of these commercial or home made products to ensure that nothing gets in your Havanese’s eyes which could cause further irritation or injury. Always use mineral Oil drops or ointment in the dogs eyes for protection. It is also important to remember that many of these stain removal methods are quite harsh and drying/damaging to the hair. Be sure to condition the area during and well after any treatments with a deep conditioner.

Re

“Poop” Happens  (and not just out in the backyard!)
 
I am so thankful that my dogs are crate trained, obedience trained and socialized. Two months ago, my husband arrived home to find waterfalls cascading from the upstairs bathroom, through the downstairs and down into the basement. Both bathrooms were destroyed as well as a good portion of the living room, upstairs hall and stairs, and one bedroom. When the adjuster arrived and noticed our six dogs, he reluctantly suggested that we board the dogs.
 
At first I refused to do that … although I had taken the dogs to “doggie day care” and that sort of thing, we had never actually boarded our dogs. I was admittedly reluctant to be stuck in my house … which was by now completely torn asunder … without my beloved canine companions by my side.
 
Within a month, however, once things had calmed down, and while we waited for the insurance adjuster to give the go-ahead for the renovations, I had time to really think. Since so many areas of the house were affected, my dogs would have been crammed in one room while the workmen were here, five days a week with only a pee break when I arrived home for lunch. Even worse was the knowledge that if a workman forgot and let the dogs out that, with paint cans, saws etc. scattered all about, the dogs might actually be in danger of being hurt. I also noticed that the renovators often left the front gate open. That thought changed my mind.
 
I had thought carefully about what was important to me for my dogs. It was important to me that they not arrive back home a matted mess. It was important that my dogs be boarded in at least groups of two so that none of them were unnecessarily worried about this unexpected turn of events. It was important that my dogs be fed their high-end food twice a day. It was important that the dogs receive adequate exercise … I’m a believer in daily exercise for all of my dogs.  And, finally, it was important that my dogs be loved and have some human care.
 
When we arrived with the first of our crew, I had a look around the kennel operation. The enclosures were quite large, not just crates, with outside runs as well. There was no foul smell but neither was everything shined and polished to such a sheen that the dogs weren’t able to have a normal good time.
 
I watched the owner … she didn’t rush at my dogs but stood back, talking in a quiet and confident voice and waited until each one approached her and they each did in turn. She asked some pertinent questions about my crew, including whether they were good with children because her two children, twelve and ten helped around the kennel and loved the dogs and I was honest in replying that “none of my dogs have ever bitten anyone but since our children are all grown, they have likely not had enough exposure to little ones either”. 
 
I worried and fretted and missed my dogs terribly.  When I called the next day to check on their progress, I was assured that they were all faring well. The dog I had worried about the very most, a young Chihuahua, had been brought into the home with the family, sleeping on their beds at night and was living the “life o’ Riley”. That’s when I breathed a sign of relief and realized that everything was going to be alright.
 
Life happens … illnesses, death, marital breakdowns, financial duress … we owe it to our beloved canine friends to prepare. See the article titled “Home away from home” for tips on how to locate a boarding kennel or petsitter which will best suit your pets. 
 
Noel Hynds
first published in Hav News and Views Summer 2009

any people first ask a neighbour or relative to drop by to let their dog out several times a day and to ensure that there is fresh food and water available.  For a very short term solution, this may not be bad.  If the chosen person genuinely loves your pooch and will spend time with her and walk her in your absence, this may not be a bad choice.  Too often, though, a non-dog person doesn’t place a very high priority on the care of your pet because “she’s just a dog” and, for most of us, this isn’t a good choice.

Some people choose to hire a petsitter . a well-qualified petsitter can be a blessing in disguise, particularly for elderly, disabled, fearful or aggressive pets who may not fare well in a boarding kennel or who may simply not even be welcome.  A good pet sitter will offer some pre-visits to ensure that the dog recognizes her in your absence, both for her safety and for the emotional wellbeing of the dog.  To be greeted with a “oh, good, it’s you” from Ruff is a good scenario.  The petsitter will walk, feed, groom and love up your dog in your absence.  Again, though, be sure to scrutinize references and watch the interaction between your dog and the petsitter . she may be a perfectly nice person but if your dog doesn’t react well to her, Ruff’s stress won’t be mitigated in your absence . instead, it will be greatly increased.
There is an occasional petsitter who will move right into your home to care for your pet in your absence . an ideal solution for dogs who would not adjust to a boarding kennel.  By far, though, the most popular solution for dogs whose owner needs to be away are boarding kennels.

For normal, healthy, active dogs, boarding kennels provide exercise, safety and professional care for your dog.  For dogs who might eat the couch in your absence, there is a sense of relief to realize that your home will remain intact.  High energy dogs, who have been adequately socialized, bound into their familiar boarding kennel, looking forward to romping with dogs of many shapes and sizes, often much too tired at the end of the day to miss their owners.

Following are a list of areas to research before settling on a boarding kennel:

1. Are vaccinations a requirement or does the kennel owner make adjustments if you provide a note from your veterinarian stating that titre levels, for instance, show that sufficient immunity is in place.  Some boarding kennels have stringent requirements for annual vaccinations . recent protocols suggest that every three years is all that is required. Although some opt to not over-vaccinate their pets, boarding kennel owners are also in the position of ensuring safety from disease for a large number of dogs at a time.
2. Does the kennel board intact dogs or do they board only spayed/neutered dogs?  Will the kennel accept a bitch in season?
3. If your dog does require medication, are the kennel staff trained to administer insulin shots or give oral medications?  Is there an extra fee for this service?  Is there a veterinarian on call or does the kennel prefer to take your dog to your own vet?
4. How many dogs are boarded at any one time and how many staff are there to care for this number?  Are the staff experienced with dogs?
5. How will your dog spend her day?  Is there adequate room to run and play?  How often is your dog walked and/or exercised?
6. Are very large, boisterous dogs exercised separately from our tinier breeds?
7. How is a misbehaving pooch dealt with?  A time out in the crate may be a discipline measure.  A stern voice may be called for.  Even a tap under the chin, especially for aggression, may be called for.  Harsh punishment, however, of any kind is unacceptable to me.
8. Does the kennel provide food or does the owner bring the food that their dog is accustomed to?
9. Are the buildings and enclosures safe?  Look for gaps in the fencing.

These are just a few questions that you might ask of a boarding kennel.  Ask to view the facilities before making a decision . are gates securely fastened so that Ruff won’t escape?  Is the kennel generally orderly and clean . there will probably be a doggie odor but there is a vast difference between that and a stench due to faeces which haven’t been picked up.  To me, a sterling clean boarding kennel is not a must . I prefer the facility be sanitary but if there’s extra time in a day, I’d much prefer that my dog receive some extra hugs or extra playtime than reclining in a kennel while the kennel staff buff and polish.

Probably the most important issue is the knowledge and experience of the boarding kennel staff.  Is the staff dog savvy and do they genuinely enjoy working with canines?  How does Ruff react to them . Does he pull back or start to pant in fear when you pull into the driveway or is he bounding and barking in the back seat because he can’t wait to get in there to greet his friends?

Many kennels encourage the owner to bring a blanket that is carrying your scent and the scent of other household members . This comforts Ruff and assures him that you’ll be back for him in the very near future.

Noel Hynds
Previously published in Hav News and Views Fall 2009

In the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, amid decorating, wrapping, baking and celebrating; keeping an eye on all the two legged and 4 legged kids is quite a task. When you least expect it, you may find that your usually well-behaved Havanese has suddenly become a snoop, thief, glutton, shredder and destroyer extraordinaire. What happened? The holidays present many challenges and stresses for everyone, including your Havanese. You may be much busier than usual and regular routines may have gone by the wayside; a normally quiet house may be filled with guests. The furniture has been re-arranged; there’s a tree in the corner and there are parcels galore begging to be played with (after all they are on the floor where the toys usually are.) A plethora of intriguing smells waft on the air. Temptation is everywhere and can be overwhelming even for the most well behaved pet.

Don’t forget that your Havanese that loves to climb on the back of the sofa or sun himself on the kitchen table, can and will easily do the same to help himself to those tempting treats and holiday decor you thought were out of his reach. Havanese are also very intelligent and creative and will easily find ways to get to places you never thought possible. There are several items around the house at this time of year that can be hazardous to your pet’s health.

Poinsettias, while not nearly as dangerous as once believed, are only mildly toxic, but the sap can cause irritation of the skin, eyes and mucus membranes. If ingested, larger quantities can cause nausea and vomiting. Holly and mistletoe may cause more severe gastro-intestinal symptoms, as well as cardiovascular collapse. Decorations such as scented pine cones, preserved greens, dried arrangements and wax fruits have usually been treated with potentially toxic chemicals and can be dangerous to play with or nibble on. Swags, garlands and tasseled runners tempt and tease as they dangle, just begging to be tugged on, which risks pulling down heavy ornaments, breakables or lit candles which can all be a danger not to mention a mess to clean up. On the tables and counters, pay attention to candy, nuts, chocolate and other sweets or snacks. Breakable ornaments, tinsel and electric cords are some of the major holiday hazards around the Christmas tree along with tipping or pulling the tree over. If you have a live tree, be extra vigilant so your Havanese does not drink the treated water nor view the tree as a convenient indoor potty. Havanese love paper and will be delighted to unwrap and investigate each and every gift under the tree, but what is inside can be potentially harmful i.e.) Plastic wrap, batteries, small parts that can be ingested, or choked on, toxic chocolate, etc.

Try to keep the routine as similar as possible. Don’t forget walks and potty outings. Havanese love to be part of the action. Be sure to introduce your Havanese to all your guests but do allow your pet to escape to a safe spot if things become overwhelming. Your Havanese will delight in having a few gifts of their own to open and play with. A little forethought and planning will ensure you are celebrating your holidays at home with your family and not at the Vet Clinic with a sick or injured pet.

Happy Holidays

Firework Phobia

Chocolate contains a chemical called theobromine which dogs lack the enzyme to process. When ingested in small quantities, this may cause upset stomach, vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness and hyperactivity. Larger quantities can cause heartbeat irregularities, muscle spasms, seizures, coma and death.

Toxic amounts depend on the size of the dog, the type of chocolate and the quantity ingested. Dark chocolate and pure cocoa contain the most theobromine thus are most dangerous. Sweets like cookies, cakes, tea & cola contain less; White chocolate and “coco-flavoured” treats are said to have negligible amounts but its wisest to avoid them all. Milk chocolate can be lethal at approximately 1oz. per pound of body weight while dark Bakers chocolate at only 1/10oz. per pound. For a Havanese, 8oz of milk chocolate, 3oz of semi-sweet or 1oz of dark chocolate could be deadly. Symptoms of toxicity can occur with much lower amounts. Theobromine causes different reactions to different dogs and even the smallest amount could be lethal to sensitive Havanese or to those with health problems. Havanese suspected of having chocolate toxicity or having eaten a potentially toxic amount require prompt veterinary attention. If you cannot reach your Vet immediately, it is recommended to induce vomiting till you can contact them.

With Thanksgiving and Halloween upon us and Christmas just around the corner, there may be an abundance of tempting sweets around the house. Be vigilant and keep your Havanese safe. At Halloween, watch where candy bowls/bags are placed and do not leave them unattended. After ‘Trick or Treating’, check the yard for dropped treats, also for leftover candy wrappers which many Havanese love to tear and chew. In the house, remember that Havanese are nimble jumpers and agile climbers and may easily reach what you consider “unreachable”. The safest storage spot will be in a sealed container, on an upper shelf, behind a closed door. Candy, though potentially less lethal than chocolate, can still be a danger. Diabetic Havanese can get into the most serious trouble ingesting candy, but the danger does not stop there. Candy on sticks can be swallowed whole and may cause perforation….wrappers and sticks are largely indigestible and may lead to stomach upset and blockage…Toffee can effectively glue the mouth shut….Sugar causes tooth decay…etc. If you like chocolate and sweets, as most of us do, please keep it for yourself and well away from your Havanese. The only safe amount for your best friend is None At All.